by Jennifer Kilbourne
My husband has a fishing kayak. I have a sea kayak. Last August, we both wanted to “get away from it all” and spend a few days enjoying some time on the water as well as some backcountry camping. The classic sea kayak journey through the Apostle Islands wasn’t an option, and fishing at Lighthouse Cove on Lake St. Clair just wasn’t adventurous enough. Solution: a week at Craig Lake State Park in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.
Craig Lake State Park is possibly the most under-used State Park in Michigan. It is located in the western part of the Upper Peninsula, west of Marquette. Many years ago, the land was amassed by Frederick Miller, of the Miller Brewing Company. A seven-mile logging road off Highway 41 introduced us to the ruggedness of the park. After packing a week’s worth of supplies into the boats, we wheeled them down the 1/5 of a mile track to the lake. And what a lake it was! – 307 acres of bays, inlets, channels and open water. Islands large enough to spend an hour exploring. And rocks of all sizes jutting out of the water in surprising places. There are about nine official camp sites on Craig Lake (camping on the islands is not permitted). Each one has a tent pad or a suitable place to pitch a tent, a thunderbox or basic outhouse, and a fire pit. If you are up for a portage, Crooked Lake and Clair Lake each provide more places to explore and a total of three more official camp sites. The North Country Trail cuts through this park, so some of the sites are accessible to hikers.
Fishing is probably the reason why most people come to Craig Lake State Park. The lakes are Catch and Release. On the weekend, there were some people who came just to fish for the day, so it did get “busy” (maybe a dozen canoes/kayaks on the lake, compared to 4 or 5 during the week). No power boats are allowed. There are two cabins on the lake that are available to rent, as well as a yurt at neighbouring Teddy Lake. And yes, the fishing was excellent.
We camped on a point, about halfway up the lake. Bears are present in the park, so we were very careful to do our cooking and eating at a distance from the tent. We brought a bear keg to store some of our food in, and hung the rest. The lake has enough fetch that strong winds in certain directions can create small white caps. At other times, it was so silent; we thought it had to be the most peaceful place in the world. I did not get bored kayaking on the 307 acre lake. There were so many nooks and crannies and islands to explore. We portaged the fishing kayak over to Crooked Lake one day, but barely explored 20% of it (next time!) The portage to Clair Lake was more than we wanted to tackle, but with a lighter boat (or a stronger back) it would be a very private lake to explore.
It has been said that Craig Lake State Park is like the Boundary Waters, but with fewer people. It is a great destination for anyone who wants to get away for a few days, and do some paddling without having to worry about the weather as much as you do on the Great Lakes. Families with both sea kayaks and canoes (or fishing kayaks) can spend some paddling time together. Day hikes on the North Country Trail or on the trail that circles the lake provide other opportunities for exploring (and seeking out blueberries!) But now that I’ve let you in on our secret destination, you can’t tell anyone else. Promise?