Jim Fitton
Snow White had found her Prince Charming among the seven little men and wished to celebrate her honeymoon on the north tip of Beausoleil Island together, of course, with the other six dwarves. But, in one of those strange last-minute twists of fate, she saw her plans go up in smoke, like smoke up a chimney. But we are jumping far forward and must go back to the beginning of this adventure.
The plans for this trip were quite appropriately placed in the hands of the most intelligent of the dwarves, the wise old Doc. His plan was to paddle up Simcoe and Couchiching into the canal system, and, taking one lock per day, to proceed up along Beausoleil Island to Honeymoon Bay. He summoned his fellow travellers to meet one Saturday in September at McRae Point Provincial Park on the north-east shore of Lake Simcoe. Six members of the team assembled by early afternoon, including Doc, Snow White, the Prince, Happy, Grumpy, and Sneezy. They drove their cars to Honey Harbour, where Prince Charming had arranged for a shuttle back to the park. Late in the evening, Gpsy and Bashful arrived, the latter after a 12-hour drive from New Jersey. Having missed the shuttle, he had to pay a full week’s camping fee just to park his car in the nearly empty campgrounds. Rules are rules!
It had been mild, but had rained heavily on Friday into the night. A cool change was coming, but fairer weather was promised as the week unfolded. During the night, we were aware of high winds and a “strong wind warning” was in effect for Sunday on the lakes. The campsites were protected, but we could see that it would not be an easy day’s paddle ahead. Dry suits, neoprene and paddling jackets were donned as we cast off. The wind blew continuously from the north and it was cold. Both Simcoe and Couchiching were turbulent with constant waves, some up to a metre. But while it was a battle to make headway, it was, as always, no challenge to maintain course while paddling directly into the waves, and there were a few islands on Couchiching behind which to take some shelter. There were two stops, and speed was slow, but we finally reached the last leg of the lake. At this point, the group became fragmented, which aroused the ire of Grumpy who lectured the group about the need to paddle together for safety. The pep talk was missed by Sneezy who had decided to take a short cut across the last bay, but was summoned back to join the group by Doc.
Finally, the intrepid paddlers reached the comparative shelter of the river and were shortly at the Couchiching Lock. Doc had phoned ahead, and the congenial staff stayed well after their scheduled home time to keep the lock open for us and to collect our fees, even giving us a break in this area, too. It was good to set up tents, but unfortunately the wind was still strong and the river made for a wind tunnel effect. At 12 degrees, it was not a good afternoon for a swim!
The morning was cold, one degree, and the wind continued in our faces, but today would be a more protected paddle. Except, that is, for the three kilometre journey across Sparrow Lake. Here again the waves were against us, but we were not long in the passage as we turned north-west. We had noticed on Couchiching the sudden transition from the lowland character of Simcoe, with its good soils, to the rocky and sandy aspect of the Canadian Shield. We were now journeying through a typical Muskoka landscape, a country of rivers, bays and small lakes, created a century ago by the locks and dams of the canal system.
At one point, the lead trio, Gpsy, Sneezy and Happy were confronted by an apparent choice of routes. The boat channel clearly turned right, but the man with the electronic device swore that there was a short cut to be had by turning left. The adventurous trio turned here and paddled for ten minutes until it was clear that only one member of the group, our leader was following us. He had been trying to signal with his whistle, but went unheeded because he was downwind. The indication of the GPS was at variance with the nautical chart which showed dry land and no exit on our route. Chastened, we returned. As we rejoined the group, Happy turned in his kayak and promptly flipped. I can still see his smiling face as he surfaced. Doc effected the rescue and helped with the pumping out of the boat, and it was then time for lunch.
This day was another 25-kilometre paddle and we arrived by mid-afternoon at Swift Rapids. Although the afternoon was cool at 14 degrees, two of the dwarves found time for a clean-up swim. Work was underway on the lock with the sound of pneumatic tools disturbing the quiet. Also, a large cruiser pulled up in the late afternoon and moored near our boats, but the crew were friendly and quiet into the evening.
It was another frosty morning with the temperature at zero, and quite foggy. I was glad to have brought wool socks with me. We were set to go at 10:15 when the lock official was at his station, but he demanded to see proof that we were paid up. “Didn’t the last lock phone you?” demanded Doc. “Yes,” was the reply, “but they didn’t say what kind of pass you had bought.” Fortunately, the punctilious Grumpy had his pass available to show. We entered the lock and made the dramatic 14-metre descent to the downstream side.
This would be a short day’s paddle of 14 kilometres. A riverside restaurant beckoned us in mid-morning, but we were told it was only open on weekends at this time of year. The day is warmer and with less wind, and we feel good arriving at Big Chute. The campground is above the railway and is spacious and clean. This is the most interesting stop of the four stations as there is a hydro plant and lots of displays to see. We see the old railway and the railcar. There is a restaurant at the marina, but this is closed and even the sign outside the store advertising Chapman’s ice cream proves misleading as this also is only available on the weekend. However, there is Neilson ice cream to be had in the store’s freezer, and our generous leader buys a block of Neapolitan and some plastic cups for his fellow travellers. All of us eat up, except one dwarf who warns us of the dangers of eating too much sugar. 
Snow White has a screw loose, in a barely accessible part of her rudder linkage. She dons a head covering and a headlamp, and clutching a Philips head screwdriver on a multi-tool plunges head first into the bowels of her boat, but is frustrated in her effort to make the repair. Fortunately, one of the more diminutive dwarves is able to squirm in and replace the screw.
Next morning, the ride down the chute on the railway is exhilarating for the eight kayakers. The weather is improving daily and we sometimes feel quite warm. I can now remove my paddling jacket and fleece shirt to paddle in neoprene shorts and vest. We are moving through the beautiful and prestigious Gloucester Pond. We have seen many fine cottages on our trip but they are all eclipsed by the mansions on this lake. While there are some “McMansions,” I must say that I don’t recall seeing bigger or more splendid waterfront homes than those which were evident in this area.
This is another short day’s paddle and we are at the beautiful campground at Port Severn. Here, there is actually a pavilion, where the enterprising Doc and Bashful pitch their tents. Port Severn is a real town, albeit a very small one, and it offers stores, including a liquor store, and a restaurant which is actually open. Gpsy had called in there after a previous camping trip in the Massasauga Provincial Park, but his unkempt appearance brought a rebuff when he was told that the establishment offers “fine dining.” The reader may judge whether the advertised offering of “ribs, wings, pizza…etc,” constitutes “fine dining.” But, more importantly, our leader must have apprised the staff of the state of our group, for when we presented ourselves at 5:30, there were no qualms expressed in admitting or serving us, even though some of the dwarves were sporting various lengths of beard.
Most of the group feel themselves to be fat-and-protein deprived after the exertions of the previous days, and order steaks. The place offers a number of interesting draft beers. About the food and drink, there are no complaints, and we all retire satisfied to our tents. It is a beautiful moonlit night, and it is cool rather than cold.
The lock opens on time and we finally enter Georgian Bay. We wend our way through the labyrinth of bays and islands to Beausoleil. There is a short stop at the visitor centre which has been refurbished in recent years. Our journey takes us along the east side of the island and through the Little Dog channel. We exit and are immediately in the midst of a host of young people, high school students, in canoes. We can quickly see from the rudimentary skills of many of the teens that this is a training session. We discover that the group is camped at Honeymoon Bay. Non-plussed, Prince Charming and Sneezy continue on their way, reconciled to sharing this site with a large and probably noisy group. Once again, the energetic Doc must catch them up and turn them back to join the rest of the group, which has detoured to Chimney Bay. Apparently the decision to forego the original plan is based on the knowledge that there is only a double latrine at Honeymoon Bay and the prospect of sharing this with dozens of adolescents is a daunting one.
No problem. The site at Chimney Bay is wonderful. There are multiple tent platforms and picnic tables; there is a sandy beach; and there are trails to be explored. I have my own tent area and my own table. I spend a pleasant hour walking the Fairy Trail. The trail passes near Honeymoon Bay and I hear the whooping and hollering of the youngsters. In the latter section of my hike, I am astonished at the wonderful hardwoods growing here: white and red oak, maple, and beech. It is surely an anomaly to find such growth, which must surely indicate decent soils, in any area of the Shield. The campgrounds are littered with acorns and the silence is occasionally broken by the fall of these little bombs.
A fine, clear, mild night leads to a glorious morning and the day promises fair, with very light winds and sunshine. Some have been murmuring of a circumnavigation of the island. At this point, the group splits up. Grumpy and Gpsy will explore the islands to the north, Snow White, Doc, Bashful, and Sneezy will do the long paddle, and the Prince will return to Honey Harbour to await this quartet.
The circumnavigators leave by 9:15 and paddle north. We encounter the school group on its way home, and one of the adults tells us that we would not have enjoyed sharing the site with his young charges, again confirming the correctness of the decision to change plans. As we head north, we can see out over the “world’s largest freshwater archipelago.” I had not been here for many years, and am reminded what a gorgeous area this is. We continue circumspectly through the islands, aware of how low water levels have become. The GPS and maps are unclear about the shortcuts. One is so shallow that three paddlers exit and drag their boats through, but the fourth imitates a steam alligator and “winches” the kayak through. What some people will do to avoid wetting their feet!
We round the tip and head south. A lighthouse/coastguard station is en route and we are invited to visit. This is an interesting break from the paddling. We continue, and lunch at a beach near cabins that are available for rent on the west side of the island. We round the tip and work our way slowly east. It is very shallow for a long way offshore here, but finally we reach the boat channel, where there is much boat traffic. We remember that it is Friday afternoon. The Big Dog Channel is not busy and we make our way to Honey Harbour, where the Prince has already loaded his kayak.
It has been a wonderful week. With the last four days being absolutely ideal for paddling, the cold and windy weather of the first days has been forgotten. And the last day’s paddle has erased any disappointment about losing the Honeymoon Bay site. So our sole lady and her seven male escorts have to thank our leader, Dave Morningstar, not only for organizing the trip but for arranging such delightful weather.
Additional Information
Dates Sep 21 – 29, 2013
Organizer: Dave Morningstar
Type: Wilderness Camping
Class: C-2
Group Size: Max. 10 paddlers
Start: Mckae Prov. Pk
Finish: Beausoleil Is.
Parking: McRae Prov Park Honey Harbor.