Story: Joe Leering
Photos: Johanna Wandel
As I read this trip posting in Qayaq, it stirred up thoughts of a terrific trip through some of this province’s wildest areas. I had heard that this trip is something that one should aspire to and I believed that I was now ready for it. There were five of us, Johanna, Sarka, Peter, Keith and myself.
This is a lake that must be respected. One of our party slipped a slice of roast beef into the water early on in the trip as none of us had brought some tobacco, but I don’t think that was good enough. You can’t appease the lake, and every now and then it sends you a reminder that you are completely at its mercy.
We met at Johanna’s parents’ camp just south of the Sault. The next day we drove three hours to Michipicoten where we picked up the shuttle, then another two and a half hours to our starting point – Hattie Cove, the park HQ.
Rain, rain and more rain on the way. Is there no end to this? The only good thing about all this rain is the reduced danger of forest fires. At least that is what I said to myself. Finally we arrived at the Park.
We offloaded our kayaks and gear and began the challenge of trying to fit everything into our boats. This was the first time I had gone on a camping trip with my new kayak, so it was even more of a challenge. Then we were ready for mandatory familiarization session at the park headquarters. This was a disappointment, as I didn’t learn anything new. It was confirmed that the water was 4 degrees. So if one were to dunk you would not last very long in this temperature. There is also a requirement to file a float plan with the Coast Guard, which includes an expected completion date. This float plan must be cancelled or else the Search and Rescue is called out.
We activated our float plan and were off at last. We decided to go only about an hour out of Hattie Cove to the White River Campgrounds for our first overnight.
WHITE RIVER – OISEAU BAY
There was just enough space for our five tents. It was a so-so camping spot with a very rocky landing area. Because it was still early we decided to paddle upriver to see Chigamiwinigum Falls on the White River. After landing, there was about a 1-kilometre portage to the falls. The 30-metre deep chasm with a footbridge suspended over it by means of four cables was a very impressive sight. We took some pictures and then paddled back to camp, made supper.
I woke up several times during the night but was refreshed. We had breakfast and then packed the boats, and were underway shortly after 8:00. The water was quite calm, with just some rolling waves of less than 1 metre. But when the wind blew from the lake it was very cool. During the morning break we stopped at Shot Watch Cove where there is another swinging bridge over the river. This one is only about 3 metres above the water. There are several beautiful sandy beaches in this area. We saw lots of moose tracks.
Another hour’s paddling brought us to Oiseau Bay with its long sandy beach. We decided to camp on the southerly side, which had some nice sandy spots. Sarka and I went for a walk in the afternoon but we couldn’t get close to where we wanted to go – the top of the mountain across from our campsite. The bush proved to be impenetrable, with no trails to be found.
There was no bear box on the site so we stored our food in our kayaks. (A bear box is a steel box about three feet by two feet by two feet with a hasp/latch arrangement.) If there was one available we used it. Usually the site had a thunderbox, sometimes enclosed but at other times open to the world. There is something to be said about sitting on the throne and literally seeing the world go by.
OISEAU BAY – NORTH SWALLOW RIVER
Today was the third day of paddling. And it showed in that I had three blisters developing on my left hand – the one that turns with a feathered paddle and my shoulder was sore. I was snug as a bug in my sleeping bag even though the temperature dropped to an estimated 10 degrees or possibly lower. Towards the early morning it did get quite windy but it didn’t riffle the tent so it was most likely from the east.
We had an early breakfast and were on the water by 8:00. I didn’t like to pack a wet tent (due to condensation) but there was no choice. We had a brief pit stop near Nichols Cove while Johanna climbed to the top of the mountain to take some pictures. Then we had more paddling against a South wind, but there were no great waves. Terrific scenery though. For the second successive day we didn’t seen any other humans; no boats and no freighters either, nothing else.
We stopped for lunch at White Gravel Beach, a beautiful gravelly beach with a stream flowing out of it. When Sarka went to use the facility she found a small porcupine sitting on top of it. Later when we re-boarded our boats I got a wave aboard. So now I was wet – no fun in four-degree water.
It was another couple of kilometres to the North Swallow River, which had another great sandy beach sheltered by a high mountain and a lower one. Peter offered each of us cold beer, a nice way to end a day’s paddling. It was surprising how cold the beer was in the bottom of his kayak. We sat in the shade and enjoyed it. If it weren’t for the numerous biting insects this site would have been close to perfect. It was now about 4:00 p.m. so we went for a short walk across the peninsula to the other side and were surprised to find a Pukasaw Pit. These are round or oval depressions in the gravel beach where natives went to fast and ponder. Supper was Lipton’s scalloped potatoes with broccoli and a can of turkey. (I ate the whole thing. Who believes Mr. Lipton’s four portions anyway?) Before supper Johanna had discovered a small river so we all, in turn, went for a wash.
NORTH SWALLOW RIVER – CASCADE FALLS
We had some very light rain overnight. As usual we were up early, breakfasted and were on the water by 8:00. There was a 15-20 km/h headwind from the south. We stopped at the Swallow River with its gravelly beach. Johanna and Peter ferried their boats upriver about 2 kilometres for an exploratory trip.
My shoulders were by now very sore, and we had another 8 kilometres to go to Cascade Falls with its 10-metre drop into the lake. This is the only river that cascades directly into Lake Superior. It was very hard going.
We had lunch before 12:00. Afterwards because the forecast was not very good and there were black clouds coming toward us we decided to stay put here and explore the falls. We located the path to the top of the cliff and wandered along the river for a bit. It was very picturesque.
CASCADE FALLS – PUKASKWA RIVER
What a night! During the evening get-together at the fire-pit – a time for less serious thoughts – it started to rain. We had our hot chocolates or coffees as appropriate and talked and relaxed. Soon it was bedtime (sundown).
I woke up because the ribs of my tent were touching my face. I guess one could say that there was some wind. So I dressed and went outside to tie the tent down some more. Johanna also had the same idea. Then I walked to the beach to check on the kayaks. They were ok, so back to the warmth of the sleeping bag. I for one lay awake for a long time listening to the approaching thunderstorm, then to the lightning and some more rain. There were very strong winds for a long time. But at least I was snug in my bag, and I finally managed to sleep once again. I’m happy to report that no rain got into my tent, but heard later that morning that Keith, who had pitched his tent in a more exposed location, was unwilling to leave his tent as he thought it might be blown away. Nevertheless we still got up at about 8:00. The forecast was for drizzle and possible fog with the winds shifting to the southwest at 10-15 knots. So this was a good time to get around Pointe la Canadienne to the Pukaskwa River.
We had breakfast, packed and were off. I decided to wear my wet suit and a T-shirt underneath based on the forecast figuring that I would be nice and warm. Then I put on my paddling jacket over that. While we were packing the kayaks two sailboats powered around the point into the bay, unloaded a skiff with two people who then went to the falls. We left about 11:00 and visited Otter Island to check out the lighthouse. It had a great location and had a bank of solar cells that provided some of the power.
My shoulder was getting quite sore and I started to have some serious doubts about being able to keep up with the group. I really did not want to be a burden on them. Keith paddled over and relayed a tale of an acquaintance who is an Olympic champion paddler. He maintains that the power of the paddle stroke comes from the torso not just the arms and shoulders (which is what I had been doing). Bingo! I should have remembered that vital point. As I switched and started to paddle using my whole body my stroke power improved. Slowly but surely the shoulder discomfort disappeared.
All the while it was drizzling in various intensities making a wet morning, but it was very scenic with the clouds which were based at about 100 feet drifting in and out. It made the mountains, some of which were over 1000 feet, appear like the proverbial photos of the foggy B.C. coast. But it sure made for great paddling, around Pointe la Canadienne then straight across to the Pukaskwa River campsite. We set up the tents and changed into something warmer. Supper was Lipton’s risotto with a can of chicken. Johanna surprised us with desert of a fruit cobbler and Sarka shared some hot chocolate, which was supplemented with a swig of Johanna’s Bailey’s – a terrific taste sensation.
PUKASKWA RIVER – FLOATING HEART BAY
A little after I went to sleep I woke up. An animal was making smacking type noises. Only then did I remember that we were told that there was a resident porcupine here. So I assumed that is what it was. At least as long as it stayed away from my tent I was happy. The noises however came and went. Of course one lays awake, waiting … All too soon the sun was up so I left the warmth of my sleeping bag. It had been a cold night. Wispy steam rose from the Pukasaw River because it was about 15 degrees, therefore warmer than either the lake or the air.
Leaving at about eight we first paddled about ½ km to the falls. We stopped and looked but there was not much to see except for the chasm. Then we went around Pukaskwa Point where we looked for the humungous dunes (called the Wheat Bin) that had been described to us. Sarka and I blew right past it because we had a favourable wind. We stopped for lunch at Le Petit Mort Rocks. What a beautiful spot. There was some disagreement as to whether this site rated a 4 star or better. (This writer would give it a 5.)
FLOATING HEART BAY – DOG RIVER
Again we were up bright and early before the sun. The weather forecast was for winds from the south switching to the southwest at 15 knots decreasing to 10. The lake was quite calm at this time, so we decide it was a go for the next section around Point Isacore. The lake was kind with gentle swells and the winds were with us. We stopped at the Flats for a quick break. This section is one where you have take care; there are no takeout spots for some 7 kilometres. If the winds are from the south one could get blown into the cliffs and if the winds are from the north then you could get blown out into the lake. But there is great scenery with mountains up to 1250 feet high plunging directly into the lake. We did not venture too close to the shore. About halfway through we ran into repeated areas of strong winds. (Due to katabatic effects?) Finally we were past the area, had a pee stop and carried on. We did without a lunch stop as well because there just weren’t any takeout spots. We arrived at the Dog River at about one after five hours of solid paddling. Tomorrow was our designated rest day with a side trip to Dennison Falls planned.
DOG RIVER
Hurrah. A rest day!
I slept quite well until after sunup. We had decided the night before to have a communal breakfast of pancakes. Everyone contributed something. I gave my supply of dried peaches for the fruit sauce. Peter supplied the pancake mix and some bacon. And the result was very tasty. We washed up and then got ready for the two-kilometre bush hike to the falls. It took us 1.5 hours to do the trail. At one point just before the end there was 35-foot rope to be used to climb the cliff. Then, only a short piece more and there it was in all its glory. Dennison Falls is featured in Bill Mason’s film Song of the Paddle. It is about 100 feet high and apparently the water flow is quite a bit less than last year. We ate our lunch at the top while admiring the view. Afterwards we climbed back down and went for a swim in the pool at the base of the falls. Peter went in even though he forgot to bring his trunks. While we dried ourselves he sorted through numerous small rocks to make an inukshuk which he carried back home. The winds were dying down and the forecast – courtesy of Bill Lanning’s radio – was good for an early start the next day.
We were aiming for Minicona Point, which was about 13-15 kilometres distant.
DOG RIVER – MICHIPICOTEN RIVER
The night was quite cool. Only after listening to the forecast did we learn that it was only six degrees. No wonder at least one of us was cold during the night. Peter had a mouse in his tent and had some fun trying to remove it – an experience not welcomed by any of us.
We were all up before the sun trying to get warm. We packed up and were on the water before 8:00. The forecast was for winds from the southwest at 10-15 knots, possible rain showers in the afternoon. We arrived at Minnikona a little after 11:00. This was a gorgeous spot. All of us decided to end the trip on an upbeat note and take advantage of the favourable breeze and go for Michipicoten. So after a snack on we went.
It was an 8-kilometre stretch to Perwakia Point, then about 5 kilometres across Michipicoten Bay and up the river to Naturally Superior where we had left out cars. We arrived about 2:20 p.m., well satisfied with our journey.
If you are contemplating this trip, I would suggest that you remember The Great Spirit and not forget your offering of tobacco, as he will surely know.
Another write-up of this trip and more pictures can be found at Johanna Wandel’s web-site.