Strait Ahead – A Sea Kayaker Challenges Himself Against the Gulf of St. Lawrence

Abandoned buildings on St. Paul Island
Abandoned buildings on St. Paul Island

by Serge Savard

The Université du Québec à Chicoutimi requires everyone at the end of his/her three-year outdoor leadership programme to undertake a major project. While looking at a map of the Maritimes, I had no hesitation in embarking upon a solo adventure that would take me across all of the straits on the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The Strait of Belle Isle and Cabot Strait were two on the list, and they are not to be taken lightly. Both of them have a reputation that intimidates even fishers; one by reason of its distance, the other because of the huge volume of water it funnels through the narrow gap between Labrador and Newfoundland.

Read more

Ungava Bay and Labrador

Abandoned Moravian Mission at Hebron (Photo: Tony Wright)
Abandoned Moravian Mission at Hebron (Photo: Tony Wright)

Nigel Foster

Three small wooden spoons sit on my bookshelf, crudely carved from driftwood found on Lacy Island, one of the Button Islands off the northern tip of Labrador. I carved those spoons after losing my cutlery landing in the dark having crossed Hudson Strait from Resolution Island. I planned to kayak Labrador from its northern tip as far south as Nain, but after two frustrating weeks of delays in Iqaluit it was really too late in the season to begin. It was almost September before I reached the Button Islands, perfect timing for the onset of autumn storms. Eight windy days later, near the deserted village of Port Burwell, I ran into an oil tanker and hitched a ride to Nova Scotia. That was 1981 and I have wanted to return ever since to complete the trip. That finally happened in 2004. This time I began at Kuujjuaq in Ungava Bay, northern Quebec, accompanied by the enigmatic ceramic artist Kristin Nelson, now my wife.

Read more

Paddling the Rankin River

by Rob Muylwyk

Eagle on nest in Boat Lake
Eagle on nest in Boat Lake

The excellent “Bruce Peninsula Paddling Destinations” produced by the Georgian Bay Committee, originally published in Qayaq and available on our web-site, ignores one of the Peninsula’s worthwhile interior paddling waters. These are the inland lakes generally referred to as the “Rankin River Route”, consisting of Isaac Lake, Boat Lake, and the river that connects them, named after surveyor Charles Rankin.

Read more

Rendezvous with Whales

The giants of Trinity Bay have come to play...
The giants of Trinity Bay have come to play…

Nick Donovan

The sound of beating drums drifts over the water. Soldiers dressed in crimson-red tunics, one bearing a large flag, dash up the hillside amid shouts and war cries. Rising Tide’s The New Founde Lande – Trinity Pageant is in progress. This re-enactment of a very early and tumultuous time in Newfoundland’s history creates a very appropriate backdrop as we paddle out of historic Trinity Harbour toward Fort Point.

Read more

Paddling in the Wake of Stephen King

Start of the Storm
Start of the Storm

by Melissa Hachkowski

I remembered learning about Lake Nipigon in elementary school when we read Holling C. Holling’s book Paddle to the Sea. “Paddle” was released into Lake Nipigon, travelled the river to Lake Superior and then out the Great Lakes to the St. Lawrence River. Since I am addicted to Lake Superior, I thought Nipigon had to be just as good. A fifteen-hour drive from Barrie got me to the northern Ontario town of Beardmore, one of two potential access points along the entire 350-kilometre coastline. The alternate is the town of Gull Bay on the western shore. Parking at the Poplar Point Lodge trailer park, at the end of Highway 580, I quickly loaded my kayak and headed out in the early afternoon for a light 24-kilometre start. Within the first five kilometres, I saw my first bear and was excited by sight of wildlife. From then on, I lost track of how many times I saw bears wandering the coast. I soon stopped looking at the shoreline because I found it disturbing to see THAT many bears.

Read more